Laser cutters have gone from industrial-only machines to genuinely affordable desktop tools — and South African makers have taken notice. But the market is full of confusing specs and misleading wattage claims. This guide covers every laser type, why wattage matters more than you think, the physics behind why your diode laser cannot engrave that steel keyring, and which machine is actually right for you.
The Four Types of Laser
The laser type is the single most important spec on any machine. It determines the wavelength of light produced — and that wavelength determines which materials it can cut, engrave or mark. No amount of extra wattage makes up for the wrong laser type.
Diode lasers use a semiconductor chip producing blue-violet light at around 450nm. They are the most affordable and common consumer machines — the Creality Falcon range we stock are all diode lasers, as are xTool's D1 Pro and S1.
Best for: wood, plywood, MDF, leather, dark acrylic, cardboard, fabric, anodised aluminium and painted metals. Limitations: cannot cut clear or light-coloured acrylic (the beam passes straight through) and cannot engrave bare metal.
CO2 lasers use carbon dioxide gas, producing invisible deep-infrared light at 10,600nm. This wavelength is absorbed efficiently by organic and non-metallic materials, making CO2 the industry standard for serious cutting. CO2 cuts clear and all-colour acrylic cleanly, engraves glass and ceramic directly, and handles thicker materials much faster. The xTool P2S (55W) and P3 (80W) are CO2 machines.
Like diode, CO2 cannot engrave bare metal.
Fibre lasers produce light at 1,064nm — the wavelength metals actually absorb. A fibre laser genuinely engraves bare stainless steel, aluminium, brass, copper and titanium. This is the machine for jewellery, trophies and industrial marking.
Dual-beam machines combine two laser sources in one unit. The xTool F1 Ultra pairs a 20W diode with a 20W fibre laser, and the F2 Ultra pairs a 40W diode with a 60W MOPA fibre — covering wood, leather AND bare metal in a single machine.
Why Wattage Matters — and the 20W Line
Wattage is the most misunderstood number in laser marketing. Always check optical output watts — what actually hits the material — not input electrical watts. Diode lasers are typically only 30-40% efficient, so a machine drawing 40W from the wall might only deliver 15-16W of laser energy to the material.
Under 20W optical: a great engraver, limited cutter. Detailed imagery on wood, leather, slate, and anodised metal — but 3mm plywood takes 4-6 slow passes with charring.
20-22W optical: the sweet spot. Cuts 3mm plywood in a single pass, handles 5-6mm with multiple passes. A genuine cutter and engraver combined.
40W+ diode: serious cutting machine. 10mm+ materials, production speeds, small-business territory.
55W+ CO2: a different category entirely. Clear acrylic, thick hardwood, glass and stone. The xTool P2S cuts 3mm basswood around six times faster than a 20W diode.
Our guidance: the 10W Falcon A1 is an excellent enclosed engraver for home use. The 20W Falcon A1 Pro is where cutting becomes practical. The 22W Falcon2 Pro with air assist is our top recommendation for anyone wanting to run a laser cutting business.
Why Diode Lasers Can Only Mark Metal — Not Engrave It
This is the most common misconception we encounter, and the answer is physics, not power. Engraving means the laser vaporises the surface, creating a cavity you can feel — material is physically removed. Marking means the surface is altered (colour change, oxidation) but stays smooth.
A diode laser produces light at roughly 450nm. Bare metals — especially aluminium, stainless steel, brass and copper — are highly reflective at this wavelength. The energy bounces off before the metal absorbs enough heat to do anything. CO2's 10,600nm wavelength has the same problem, with under 5% absorption on bare metal. A fibre laser at 1,064nm behaves completely differently — metals absorb it directly and reach vaporisation temperature rapidly. This is why a 20W fibre laser outperforms a far more powerful diode on bare steel.
About those videos showing diode lasers "engraving" metal: look closely. They are almost always working on anodised aluminium (a dye layer that burns away), painted or powder-coated metal, or using a marking spray like CerMark. These are surface treatments — try the same settings on bare stainless steel, and you get nothing.
What a diode CAN do to metal: anodised aluminium marks cleanly and reliably. Painted and powder-coated surfaces ablate to reveal bare metal underneath — very effective for tumblers and tool handles. Marking spray on bare metal bonds a permanent dark mark. If you need true bare-metal engraving, you need fibre — the xTool F1 Ultra or F2 Ultra.
What Materials Can a Laser Cutter Actually Cut?
Works great with diode lasers: wood and plywood (3mm birch ply cuts cleanly on 20W+ machines), leather (cuts and engraves superbly — always ventilate well), dark and opaque acrylic, cardboard, paper, fabric, rubber, EVA foam, anodised aluminium, slate, and dark stone.
CO2 unlocks these additional materials: clear and all-colour acrylic (the biggest practical advantage for most small businesses), direct glass engraving, thick wood (18-20mm hardwood in a single pass on 55W+), and ceramic or tile.
Fibre and dual-beam unlock metal: bare stainless steel, aluminium, titanium, brass, copper, gold and silver — deep permanent engraving. The MOPA fibre in the xTool F2 Ultra can even do colour engraving on stainless steel with no inks or coatings.
Never cut these on any laser: PVC and vinyl (produces chlorine gas — toxic and corrosive to your machine), polycarbonate (toxic fumes, catches fire), and carbon fibre (carcinogenic dust requiring specialist extraction).
A note on ventilation: every laser produces smoke and fumes. For occasional hobby use near a window, venting outside is workable. For regular use, enclosed machines plus a smoke purifier are strongly recommended — especially for leather and acrylic work.
Which Machine Is Right for You?
Answer these questions in order.
One: do you need to engrave bare metal? Yes — you need fibre or dual-beam: the xTool F1 Ultra or F2 Ultra. No — continue.
Two: do you need to cut clear acrylic, or work at high volume and speed? Yes — CO2 is your type: the xTool P2S 55W or P3 80W. No — continue.
Three: is this for a small business, cutting shapes and making products regularly? Yes — a 20W+ diode: the Creality Falcon A1 Pro 20W or Falcon2 22W Pro. No — continue.
Four: home use, personalisation and detail engraving? A 10W enclosed diode is perfect: the CR Falcon A1 10W or xTool S1. Safe, quiet, excellent quality.
We stock the Creality Falcon range and are bringing in the full xTool line-up — all available on request. We also strongly recommend pairing lasers with a LightBurn licence and materials including wood sheets, leather, slate and acrylic, and can advise on smoke purifiers, air assist upgrades and enclosures so you can start cutting on day one.
About Just Colours — Your Local George Laser and Maker Store
Just Colours is based at Shop 9, York Street Boulevard Shopping Centre in George. We are the Garden Route's local stockist for Creality 3D printers and Falcon laser cutters, with the xTool range coming soon — serving makers, hobbyists, schools, and small businesses across George, Knysna, Mossel Bay, Oudtshoorn, and the whole Garden Route.
Not sure which laser is right for you? Come into the store or give us a call. We will ask you three questions and point you at exactly the right machine — no upsell, no pressure.
Browse laser cutters: here
Browse 3D printers: here
Phone: 044 873 2899 | Email: info@justcolours.co.za Hours: Mon–Fri 08:30–17:30 | Sat 08:30–13:00
